Temple Travelogues - Pullamangai

 

 

Pullamangai, a small hamlet on the outskirts of Pasupathi Koil of Papanasam Taluk, which is located around 20 kms from Tanjore. This place can be reached either way from Kumbakonam or from Tanjore as it lies in the middle of Kumbakonam - Tanjore route.

 

I was referred to this temple by one of my good friend and I would never forget him for having me told about this very small temple but rich in Chola heritage and sculptors. Also I must admit and thank him for having me educated on this fantastic archeological splendor and grandeur. I was simply amazed by the art exhibited in the stone. I took two trips to this temple and I am sure there will be more. There have been too many articles that speaks about the Chola sculptures, but this one is a marvel, simply because of the size in which all this been depicted. I would really like to think this as three dimensional painting done on stone, so smooth, so flawless, so much in details done by our ancestors. The temple is so rich with the epic stories depicted on the stone panels around the outer walls of Gopuram. To quote some - episodes of Ramayana, Vishnu Purana, Shiva puran, Bramha mudi, shiva’s pose as ardhanari, Krishna suckling milk and shiva killing Gajamuhasura. There is also a Durgai’s statue on the side walls of the temple.

 

This temple is a live example or a specimen to the geniusness and creativity of the sculptors of our ancestors especially from the Chola age.

 

History of the Temple :

 

Going by the inscriptions and other archealogical evidences, it is surmised that this temple might have been built during the early years of Chola king Parantaka Choladeva-I (907-953 AD).

 

During Parantaka’s reign, the kingdom was at war many a times, but still the pious act of converting early Saivite brick temples to granite structures continued without many setbacks. This temple came under the royal attention of Parantaka during his reign who subsequently reconstructed it in stone.

 

Sthalapuranam :

 

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  The local history is that this town was known as Pullamangai and the temple name was known as “Alandhurai”. However, in present days the town name has become Pasupathi Koil.
  
  
  
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  This temple is located in the banks of Kudamuruti River. Since this temple Thala Vriksham is “Ala Maram” hence it is called as “Alandhurai”, some people say this too.
  
  
  
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  The actual story for this place is, when Devas were trying get nectar by churning the milky ocean, the snake they were using spewed poison, and it is said the God abode here took that poison and settled here.  Hence the name Alandurai or Alanthurai.
  
  
  
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  Also there is a legend that Parvati is said to have taken the form of a Chakravaha bird and worshipped Shiva here, hence the name Pullamangai.
  
  
  
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  Some sources say that the name Pullamangai is sourced from the Kites that live in the Temple Tower.
  

 Location of the temple:

 

The place is nothing more than a simple village as of today, located on the southern bank of river Cauvery (kudamuruti) - surrounded by paddy fields & coconut trees.

 

We found this hamlet with great difficulty, it was surprising that even the taxi drivers at Papanasam who ferry pilgrims to various temples around this area was not aware of this temple. It was sheer co-incidence and luck we stopped and asked a roadside mechanic at Pashupati koil who guided us to the temple as well to the Gurukkal’s(main priest) home.

 

Thirumurai references:

 

For this I had to seek my father’s help who had done some stint in HR&CE department. As per him this sthalam is mentioned in the Panniru Thirumurai (Twelve holy scriptures) and by Saivite Saint Thirugnana Sambandar. Thirugnana Sambandar was a child prodigy who lived during early part of Seventh century AD who sang the fllowing song :

 

Palunthuru thiralayina paramanpira manthan

Polunthira lavarvazhtharu pozhilchuzhpula mangaik

Kalanthira larachchadiya kadavullidang karuthil

Alanthurai thozuvarthamai yadaiwavinai thane.

 

And so on goes another 10 or so songs.

 

It is fairly right to say that this temple did not come into major prominence till 8th Century AD, this is going by the evidence that there is no other song by contemporaries of Sambandar (Saint Thirunavukarasar and Saint Sundarar).

 

I will be writing about Thirunavukarasar as a separate post.

 

About the Temple:

 

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  This temple grabha graham and artha mandapams were building during King Parantaka.
  
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  Around garbagriham a moat runs, a small one about 3 ft deep and two feet wide.
  
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  Nandhi sits with Navagrahams in this temple.
  
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  Durgai statue in this temple is very special. The Durgai is depicted here as Mahishasura Marthini with a stone umbrella standing on the head of a Buffallo. If you have closer look you will find Durgai having multiple weapons in her 8 hands and there are two additional statues of a deer and a lion. It is said that this Durgai is very powerfull and even it is compared with Durgai at Patteeswaram and Thirunageswaram.
  
  
  

Panels and statues found in the temple.

 

There were just too many miniature panels and every one of them were so eye catching with its finesse and details. You have to see it to believe why they are so overwhelming to see it. Some of them were the size of my Nokia Mobile phone. The whole panel can be hidden by using your both palms, in such a size bringing out the details definitely calls for mastery and proficiency.

 

Some of my favourite panels are enumerated below :

 

Ardhanareeswarar:- This was one of the best. This form of Shiva which great saints have praised and sung quite often in their songs and in padhigams. You can see how artfully the sculptor had brought out different looks in one statute. From top to bottom. A single face with multiple expressions. On one side, to be more precise, on the left side where Parvathi resides, it glimmers with softness and kindness, typical of a female. On the other side, that is on the right side, the complete opposite of left, it portrays gallant male look. And if you go part by part, take the head gear, its different, take the ornaments worn in hand, the details are so telling. The best is the hip curvature, you can see how slender curved the Parvathi side has been depicted while the male side is not that much. Its very difficult to miss the artistic details that has been achieved by the sculptor.

 

Had it been sculpted separately, it would look like a picture straight from their wedding album. I mean, the way Parvathi looks in the left half is such a gracefulness and beauty, I am sure most city woman would die to have such a beauty and shape. On right side, like a typical male, Shiva has placed his hand on his vehicle, which is Rishabham and looks like real bride groom giving a pose, with his broad shoulders up and straight. There are two statues one on the Main Vimana and the other one is on the West side of the Garbhagriham. The second one is such as small one, it must be of 8 inches by 3 inches. See both the pictures below :

 

Battle with Gajamukasura :- Legend says that once upon a time there lived a Asura (demon) called Gajamukasura. Gajamukasuran was in the form of an elephant. As all Asuras do, he was bad and evil and ill treated all the good people including the devotees of shiva. Lord Shiva got so annoyed and angry at the treatment meted out to good people, he decided to put an end to this and with his trident had a furious battle with the elephant bodied demon. The battle was so fierce and intense that Shiva was filled with rage and he caught the head of the elephant, crushed it with his foot and skinned him right there and wore it as his garment.

 

Now if you have a closer look at the picture, all the characters in this battle are visible. You can see Shiva in his fierce at the same time with graceful dancing pose on the elephant skin. We can see the elephant’s head down to the left of the sculpture. A closer look will tell you the posture here shiva has taken, which is a slight twist of the torso emphasising the effort he is putting to peel off the skin and don it as a coat. Just under the Shiva’s trident you can see a Shiva Ghana showing faces at the defeated asura.

 

If you move slightly to the right side, we can see a lady, presumably his wife Parvathi holding a baby, again presumably Lord Muruga, not wanting to see what is happening to the Asura or the child to see it. The scared expression of the Parvathi and the Lord Murga is given in such a detail, cudos to our sculptors. Lord Muruga’s fear can be determined by the way he is trying to jump into another lady’s arms by extending his hands, as if trying to run away from Lord Shiva as well from Parvathi. I think the whole effort has been done here to depict the fearsome expression of the whole act of killing Gajamukasuran. You can see the bigger statue of the same in Vazhudhur at Gajasamhara Murthy Temple, near Mayeeladuthurai. 

 

Gajasamhara Murthi is one of the forms of Lord Siva’s 25 Maheshwara murtis.

 

 

Panels of Ramayana : Following were the panels which I found aroun the Garbhagraham.

1.  Ram being trained on Archery
2. Birth of Janaki
3. Thadakai Vadham
4. Sita Kalayana
5. Ram helped by Kugan to cross Ganga
6. Mareechan hunting
7. Ravan Kidnaps Sita
8. Jadayu and Ravan fight it out
9. Jadayu getting his Moksham
10. Vali Sugreevan Fight
11. Vali on his death bed
12. Crowning of Vibhishnan

It is said we can see the continuation of these panels in Nageswaran Temple at Kumbakonam.

 

 

Panels of Shiva Puranam :- Following are the panels which depicted some of the Shiva Puranam parts.

1. Gajasamharamurthy (see the picture)

2. Manmadhan Dhaganam

3. Oorthuva thandavam

4. Chandesha Anugraham (see the picture)

5. Lingodhbhawar with Brahma mudi story

6. Bikshadanar with Parvathy
7. Shiva and Parvathi dancing (while manmadhan and rathi watching it)

 

Other Panels :

 

1. We can see Poovaraha Moorthy fetching Bhoodev

2. Hiranya Vatam

3. Perumal in Parkadal Sayanam.

4. Durgai killing an asuran

5. Krishna suckling milk (is it Yashodha or Boothagi – not sure)

 

 

 

When you go around the temple, you can see the way the Bhootha ganas have been used in this temple to create an ambience. Most of the ganas here are having a musical instrument in their hands or playing them or dancing to some tunes with various “bhavas” (facial expressions).

 

I was astonished to see the detail of a human riding a Yalli coming out through another Yalli’s mouth. Similarly I saw few other Yallis with their mouths open and some human form coming out of them.

 

This temple is a must see for all those lovers of art and sculpture.

 

Facts about the temple :

 

God : Brahmapureeswarar, Alandhurai Nathar, Pasupatheeswarar

Goddess : Alliangodhai Nachiar, Soundhara Nayagi

Tree : Aala Maram (Banyan Tree)

Theertham : A pond opposite to the temple ( It doesn’t exist anymore)

Name of the abode : Alandhurai (as mentioned in Thirumurai)

Saints Visited : Thriugnyana Sambandhar

 

For more pictures of Pullamangai please go to this links :

 

My Pullamangai Pictures

Temple Travelogues - Koothanur Saraswathi Amman

Saraswathi - Saraswathi Ambal or Goddess of Learning - I am quite sure any one, especially Tamilians cannot feign ignorance about this Goddess with this name as they celebrate a day for this God specially during Navarathiri festival times. Saraswathi Pooja is celebrated on the ninth day of Navarathiri and the next day is Vijayadasami day. Both these days are considered to be auspicious for starting your education or anything that is related to education and learning. As a young boy, during my school days, I always used to look forward to this day because, this was one day where you kept all your books in front of this God at home and performed Pooja. And be informed, it was not because of my devotion I always looked forward, but once you keep the books for the Pooja then you are not supposed to touch it for next two days. This concept I loved and I always looked forward to keep my books (especially the most important ones having home work) in front of this God. Now having aged and out of school, I wish in office also they would follow this practice once in a while.

In this writeup we are going to talk about a temple dedicated exclusively for Saraswathi Ambal or the Goddess of Learning. Although you can see vigrahams/moorthys/ shrines in most Saivite temples, temples exclusively dedicated for Saraswathi are rare to find.

Koothanur can be reached by road as well by rail. If you are going to access this by road then after reaching Maiyladuturai take Tiruvarur Road and once we reach Poonthottam, its about 2 km north of Poonthottam. In case you are travelling from south part of Tamil Nadu, then reach Tiruvarur or Kumbakonam by road, then reach Poonthottam. If you are accessing this temple by rail then you may have to get down at Maiyladuturai and proceed by road to Koothanur which is 15 kms away.

This ancient temple is rich in legends and beliefs. Legend says that Koothanur is associated with the mingling of the three revered rivers - Ganga, Yamuna and Saraswathi. These rivers merge here as the Harisol river or Arasalaru known in local area and this merger is known as Triveni Sangamam. It is believed that Ganga attained Lord Shiva here. Ganga was separated from Him in order to facilitate Lord Shiva marry Parvathi and give birth to Muruga, who would then kill the demon, Tarakasuran.

On the other hand, Saraswathi who had an ego clash with Brahma was born on earth. After worshiping Lord Shiva both Brahma and Saraswathi got emancipation but Lord Shiva blessed Saraswathi could mingle as a river in Harisol and was also allowed to have a shrine on the bank of the river as the Goddess of learning. However Brahma, who was already with another curse, was deprived of a shrine. Not worried of this setback, Brahma prayed again and eventually Lord Shiva allowed him to have poojas in the rituals performed towards departed souls. Thus Brahma Pooja has come to be associated with rituals, and the rituals if performed here have a special significance.

The story associated with the river Yamuna is that she was tempted by the acts of Lord Krishna with the gopikas. Subject to a curse she prayed for emancipation and came as a river here.


However, history tells us a different story. The origin of the word Koothanur was from the name of famous poet Ottakoothar, who was gifted with this village by the then king Raja Raja Chola II. Ottakoothar – a contemporary of Kamban and the author of works such as Kulothunga Cholan Ula, Saraswathi Andhathi enjoyed the patronage of imperial Chola rulers. It is said that he is the one who started the celebration of Vijaya Dasami, the day following the 9 day Navrathiri festival in the month of Puratasi(tamil month). In fact, the name Koothanur derives from the poet's name Ottakoothar. There are quite a few stone inscriptions to substantiate and validate this claim of antiquity.

The temple has attained popularity by gaining the status of the only temple dedicated to Saraswathi. Devotees throng the place praying for their children's education and also for liberation from previous births by taking a bath in the Triveni Sangamam.

There is also legend that goes about Saraswathi Amman blessing Ottakoothar. Legend has it that once a young devotee desirous of knowledge performed severe penances at the Saraswathi temple here, seeking the blessings of Saraswathi. Saraswathi took the form of a courtesan and materialized before him and expressed her desire to bless him. The devotee refused to accept her blessings, not knowing who she was. Upon hearing of this incident, and recognizing the identity of the courtesan, the poet Ottakoothar rushed to the spot and prostrated before her seeking her blessings. It was after this incident that the fame of Ottakoothar is said to have spread throughout the Tamil land.

Bhaskarar, who wrote the Sri Lalitha Sahasranama Bhashyam, said that only if a person has done good deeds in previous births he would be able to admire the Goddess.

The temple buzzes with activity during Saraswathi Pooja and Vijayadasami. Apart from these Poojas are performed daily in the morning at 9.30 (Kalasandhi), evening at 6.30 (Sayarakshai) and in the night at 8.30 (Arthajamam). The other deities in the temple are Valampuri Vinayakar, Brahma, Nagaraja, Muruga, The Swan and Narthana Vinayakar, the last one being a self originated idol.


POOJAS TO BE PERFORMED FOR:-- As Goddess Saraswathi is for Learning, devotees can perform pooja in this temple to get excellent education and for learning fine arts. Musicians sing here and many even choose to perform here first. Instrumentalists have pooja performed for their instruments here. Apart from art and culture, Goddess Saraswathi also showers Her blessings for the education of children. Many parents see to it that the education of their wards begin on Vijayadasami Day, after the initiation ceremony at this temple. It is believed, that students appearing for Exams should write their Name and Roll number on a piece of paper and put it in the hundi kept in this temple after praying for success.

Also there is a belief that couples who remain childless for a long time should offer ghee, which will be placed at the Feet of the Goddess and after performing pooja this ghee is given to the couple. On taking is ghee for the next 48 days, it is believed that the woman will certainly conceive.

Some of the Saraswathi Slogams which I Know (thanks to my mother), if children recites this every day, then they are sure to be blessed with the boons of Goddess Saraswathi:

Saraswathi namasthubhyam, varade kama roopini,
Vidhyarambham karishyami, sidhir bhavathu me sada.

English Translation of the above slogam is “My salutations to Goddess Saraswathi, who can take any form, who is the bestower of all boons, and I start learning now, with a prayer to Her, to make it very effective.


Another one :


Yakundendu Thushara Hara Davalam,

Ya shubra vastravrutham,
Ya veena vara danda manditha kara, Ya shwetha padmasana,
Ya brahmachyutha Sankara prbhruthibhi Daivai sada poojitha,
Saa maam pathu saraswathi bhagawathi Nissesha jadyabaha.


The English translation of the above slogam is like “My saluations to Goddess Saraswathi, Who is while like a Kunda flower, Who shines like the full moon, Who carries in her hand a Veena and a stick, Who is seated on the throne of white Lotus, Who is worshipped by the holy trinity, With a prayer to drive away all my slothfulness.

**Temple entrance Photograph credit goes to Gopinatha Srinivas (GS).

Temple Travelogues - Aadhi Vinayagar(Nara Ganapathi) Temple

When i decided to start this temple travelogues post, i thought the most appropriate would be to start with Lord Ganesha's one. Lord Ganesha who has an elephantine face and a huge belly, due to his fondness of Kozhakkattai (indian rice cakes) is one of the most famous God. He is the son of Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvathi. He is the benevolent protector of the innocent, yet the ruthless destroyer of all evils. Every religious ceremony is started only after invoking his blessings by reciting the shloka "Om Ganeshaya Namaha". All hindus first offer prayers to Lord Ganesh before starting any venture/work.

Me not being to be so different, also starting this blog by telling a story about Ganesha and starting with one of his own temple Aadhi Vinayagar Temple (also known as Nara Ganapathi temple) located at Thilatharpanapuri near Koothanur.

This is one of the temple in India(the other being NANDRUDAYAN Vinayaga temple in Devadhanam in East Boulevard road, Tiruchi - *to my knowledge *) where you can see Ganesha in Nar (human) form. Meaning, in this temple you will see Ganesha with a proper human head.
Now this temple - Nara Ganapathi Temple which is also called as Aadhi Vinayagar temple is located at Sithalapathi also known as Thilatharpanapuri village. To reach here, by road you can travel from Chennai via Pondicherry, Cuddalore, Chidambaram, Sirkazhi and Mayavaram. This obscure village is located three kilometres south of Poondhottam village, enroute to Thiruvaroor when you travel from Mayiladuthurai(Mayavaram). This village(Sithalapathi) can be reached after going to Koothanur also (Saraswathi Temple - i will cover this in a separate post) from Koothanur its hardly 2 kms to this temple.

If you prefer to travel by train, then the nearest rail road being Mayavaram - you have to alight here and take a taxi from this place.

Sthalapuranam :

Here the main deity’s are Sornavalli Thayar and Muktheeswarar. Aadi Vinayagar(Nara Ganapathi) is not the main deity here, though this temple is famous and is known by Nara Ganapathi rather than by the main deity’s name in recent times.

The name Thilatharpanpuri came from Thil – Gingelly and Tharpanam means performing pitru poojas/karmas for the ancestors(a hindu ritual). The name came from coining these two words. The local story claims that performing the Pitru Tharpanam here absolves you of all your pitru Sabams (ancestral sins) and Doshams.

Hindu mythology goes on saying that, Ram when he came down to earth in human avtar was performing pitru tharpanams at various places by making four Pindams (pindams made of boiled rice scooping). These pindams after performance of tharpanam became worms everytime he did the tharpanam. Ram who got worried that his pooja’s are not getting the desired result (that is the pitrus are not getting the pindams he is offering) prayed to Lord Shiva. Lord Shiva came to Ram and asked him to go to Manthara vanam in earth where he is present in the form for offering prayers. Once he reaches Mantharavanam he should take bath in the HariSolMahanadhi and then perform the Pitru Tharpananam.

Ram, as told by Shiva came down to this place and after taking bath in the Hari Sol Mahanadhi, knelt by his right leg and made four pindams and started his pitru pooja. The Pindams which were becoming worms till now became four Lingams in this place. Because of this, Dasaratha Maharaja, father of Ram got his Mukhthi (attained divine abode) and hence the main deity got the name of Muktheeswarar.

After this episode of Ram doing his karma poojas and getting his ancestors all the mukthi, this place has become one of the main sthalas for such attainment. It is said to be equivalent to that of Kasi and Rameshwaram.

This temple also houses the Ram’s moorthy in the pragaram.

The original name of this place Thilathaipathi and Mathimuthami was sung by Gnyanasambandha Peruman in one of his songs. So this sthalam is noted also from saivasthalam and devaram perspective too.

The current name of Sithalapathi came from the name of Thilatharpanapuri and Thilathaipathi. Most of the people can identify this place with the name of Sithalapathi rather than knowing it as Thilatharpanapuri or Thilathipathi.

This is a must visit place for every Hindu. The Aadhi vinayagar temple is famous for monthly Sangada Hara Chaturthi festival. Coming to the birth of Lord Ganesha and his human form in this temple, again the mythology and the local story goes like this.

Once upon a time Mother Parvati wished to take a bath in Harisolmahanathi. She created a boy from Manjal (Turmeric) powder and after giving life to this boy asked him to stand guard outside while she took bath. Meanwhile, Lord Shiva returned home. When he tried to enter the house, the boy prevented him from doing so. In anger, Shiva beheaded the boy. When Parvati saw this, she burst into tears as the boy was made of her own thing and he is like her son. In order to console her, Shiva sent out his troops (gaNa) to fetch the head of anyone found sleeping with his head pointing to the north. (that is one of the reason there is a belief that you should not sleep keeping your head pointing to North - even today). They found an elephant sleeping thus and brought back its head. Shiva then attached the elephant's head to the body of the boy and gave him new life. He named the boy Ganapati, which means commander of his troops. He also granted him a boon that everyone would worship him (Ganesha) before beginning any work.

* --> If any one knows about other Aadhi Vinayagar Temple please do let me know.