Pullamangai, a small hamlet on the outskirts of Pasupathi Koil of Papanasam Taluk, which is located around 20 kms from Tanjore. This place can be reached either way from Kumbakonam or from Tanjore as it lies in the middle of Kumbakonam - Tanjore route.
I was referred to this temple by one of my good friend and I would never forget him for having me told about this very small temple but rich in Chola heritage and sculptors. Also I must admit and thank him for having me educated on this fantastic archeological splendor and grandeur. I was simply amazed by the art exhibited in the stone. I took two trips to this temple and I am sure there will be more. There have been too many articles that speaks about the Chola sculptures, but this one is a marvel, simply because of the size in which all this been depicted. I would really like to think this as three dimensional painting done on stone, so smooth, so flawless, so much in details done by our ancestors. The temple is so rich with the epic stories depicted on the stone panels around the outer walls of Gopuram. To quote some - episodes of Ramayana, Vishnu Purana, Shiva puran, Bramha mudi, shiva’s pose as ardhanari, Krishna suckling milk and shiva killing Gajamuhasura. There is also a Durgai’s statue on the side walls of the temple.
This temple is a live example or a specimen to the geniusness and creativity of the sculptors of our ancestors especially from the Chola age.
History of the Temple :
Going by the inscriptions and other archealogical evidences, it is surmised that this temple might have been built during the early years of Chola king Parantaka Choladeva-I (907-953 AD).
During Parantaka’s reign, the kingdom was at war many a times, but still the pious act of converting early Saivite brick temples to granite structures continued without many setbacks. This temple came under the royal attention of Parantaka during his reign who subsequently reconstructed it in stone.
Sthalapuranam :
The local history is that this town was known as Pullamangai and the temple name was known as “Alandhurai”. However, in present days the town name has become Pasupathi Koil.
This temple is located in the banks of Kudamuruti River. Since this temple Thala Vriksham is “Ala Maram” hence it is called as “Alandhurai”, some people say this too.
The actual story for this place is, when Devas were trying get nectar by churning the milky ocean, the snake they were using spewed poison, and it is said the God abode here took that poison and settled here. Hence the name Alandurai or Alanthurai.
Also there is a legend that Parvati is said to have taken the form of a Chakravaha bird and worshipped Shiva here, hence the name Pullamangai.
Some sources say that the name Pullamangai is sourced from the Kites that live in the Temple Tower.
Location of the temple:
The place is nothing more than a simple village as of today, located on the southern bank of river Cauvery (kudamuruti) - surrounded by paddy fields & coconut trees.
We found this hamlet with great difficulty, it was surprising that even the taxi drivers at Papanasam who ferry pilgrims to various temples around this area was not aware of this temple. It was sheer co-incidence and luck we stopped and asked a roadside mechanic at Pashupati koil who guided us to the temple as well to the Gurukkal’s(main priest) home.
Thirumurai references:
For this I had to seek my father’s help who had done some stint in HR&CE department. As per him this sthalam is mentioned in the Panniru Thirumurai (Twelve holy scriptures) and by Saivite Saint Thirugnana Sambandar. Thirugnana Sambandar was a child prodigy who lived during early part of Seventh century AD who sang the fllowing song :
Palunthuru thiralayina paramanpira manthan
Polunthira lavarvazhtharu pozhilchuzhpula mangaik
Kalanthira larachchadiya kadavullidang karuthil
Alanthurai thozuvarthamai yadaiwavinai thane.
And so on goes another 10 or so songs.
It is fairly right to say that this temple did not come into major prominence till 8th Century AD, this is going by the evidence that there is no other song by contemporaries of Sambandar (Saint Thirunavukarasar and Saint Sundarar).
I will be writing about Thirunavukarasar as a separate post.
About the Temple:
This temple grabha graham and artha mandapams were building during King Parantaka.
Around garbagriham a moat runs, a small one about 3 ft deep and two feet wide.
Nandhi sits with Navagrahams in this temple.
Durgai statue in this temple is very special. The Durgai is depicted here as Mahishasura Marthini with a stone umbrella standing on the head of a Buffallo. If you have closer look you will find Durgai having multiple weapons in her 8 hands and there are two additional statues of a deer and a lion. It is said that this Durgai is very powerfull and even it is compared with Durgai at Patteeswaram and Thirunageswaram.
Panels and statues found in the temple.
There were just too many miniature panels and every one of them were so eye catching with its finesse and details. You have to see it to believe why they are so overwhelming to see it. Some of them were the size of my Nokia Mobile phone. The whole panel can be hidden by using your both palms, in such a size bringing out the details definitely calls for mastery and proficiency.
Some of my favourite panels are enumerated below :
Ardhanareeswarar:- This was one of the best. This form of Shiva which great saints have praised and sung quite often in their songs and in padhigams. You can see how artfully the sculptor had brought out different looks in one statute. From top to bottom. A single face with multiple expressions. On one side, to be more precise, on the left side where Parvathi resides, it glimmers with softness and kindness, typical of a female. On the other side, that is on the right side, the complete opposite of left, it portrays gallant male look. And if you go part by part, take the head gear, its different, take the ornaments worn in hand, the details are so telling. The best is the hip curvature, you can see how slender curved the Parvathi side has been depicted while the male side is not that much. Its very difficult to miss the artistic details that has been achieved by the sculptor.
Had it been sculpted separately, it would look like a picture straight from their wedding album. I mean, the way Parvathi looks in the left half is such a gracefulness and beauty, I am sure most city woman would die to have such a beauty and shape. On right side, like a typical male, Shiva has placed his hand on his vehicle, which is Rishabham and looks like real bride groom giving a pose, with his broad shoulders up and straight. There are two statues one on the Main Vimana and the other one is on the West side of the Garbhagriham. The second one is such as small one, it must be of 8 inches by 3 inches. See both the pictures below :
Battle with Gajamukasura :- Legend says that once upon a time there lived a Asura (demon) called Gajamukasura. Gajamukasuran was in the form of an elephant. As all Asuras do, he was bad and evil and ill treated all the good people including the devotees of shiva. Lord Shiva got so annoyed and angry at the treatment meted out to good people, he decided to put an end to this and with his trident had a furious battle with the elephant bodied demon. The battle was so fierce and intense that Shiva was filled with rage and he caught the head of the elephant, crushed it with his foot and skinned him right there and wore it as his garment.
Now if you have a closer look at the picture, all the characters in this battle are visible. You can see Shiva in his fierce at the same time with graceful dancing pose on the elephant skin. We can see the elephant’s head down to the left of the sculpture. A closer look will tell you the posture here shiva has taken, which is a slight twist of the torso emphasising the effort he is putting to peel off the skin and don it as a coat. Just under the Shiva’s trident you can see a Shiva Ghana showing faces at the defeated asura.
If you move slightly to the right side, we can see a lady, presumably his wife Parvathi holding a baby, again presumably Lord Muruga, not wanting to see what is happening to the Asura or the child to see it. The scared expression of the Parvathi and the Lord Murga is given in such a detail, cudos to our sculptors. Lord Muruga’s fear can be determined by the way he is trying to jump into another lady’s arms by extending his hands, as if trying to run away from Lord Shiva as well from Parvathi. I think the whole effort has been done here to depict the fearsome expression of the whole act of killing Gajamukasuran. You can see the bigger statue of the same in Vazhudhur at Gajasamhara Murthy Temple, near Mayeeladuthurai.
Gajasamhara Murthi is one of the forms of Lord Siva’s 25 Maheshwara murtis.
- Ram being trained on Archery
- Birth of Janaki
- Thadakai Vadham
- Sita Kalayana
- Ram helped by Kugan to cross Ganga
- Mareechan hunting
- Ravan Kidnaps Sita
- Jadayu and Ravan fight it out
- Jadayu getting his Moksham
- Vali Sugreevan Fight
- Vali on his death bed
- Crowning of Vibhishnan
It is said we can see the continuation of these panels in Nageswaran Temple at Kumbakonam.
Panels of Shiva Puranam :- Following are the panels which depicted some of the Shiva Puranam parts.
1. Gajasamharamurthy (see the picture)
2. Manmadhan Dhaganam
3. Oorthuva thandavam
4. Chandesha Anugraham (see the picture)
5. Lingodhbhawar with Brahma mudi story
6. Bikshadanar with Parvathy
7. Shiva and Parvathi dancing (while manmadhan and rathi watching it)
7. Shiva and Parvathi dancing (while manmadhan and rathi watching it)
Other Panels :
1. We can see Poovaraha Moorthy fetching Bhoodev
2. Hiranya Vatam
3. Perumal in Parkadal Sayanam.
4. Durgai killing an asuran
5. Krishna suckling milk (is it Yashodha or Boothagi – not sure)
When you go around the temple, you can see the way the Bhootha ganas have been used in this temple to create an ambience. Most of the ganas here are having a musical instrument in their hands or playing them or dancing to some tunes with various “bhavas” (facial expressions).
I was astonished to see the detail of a human riding a Yalli coming out through another Yalli’s mouth. Similarly I saw few other Yallis with their mouths open and some human form coming out of them.
This temple is a must see for all those lovers of art and sculpture.
Facts about the temple :
God : Brahmapureeswarar, Alandhurai Nathar, Pasupatheeswarar
Goddess : Alliangodhai Nachiar, Soundhara Nayagi
Tree : Aala Maram (Banyan Tree)
Theertham : A pond opposite to the temple ( It doesn’t exist anymore)
Name of the abode : Alandhurai (as mentioned in Thirumurai)
Saints Visited : Thriugnyana Sambandhar
For more pictures of Pullamangai please go to this links :
